It is possible to get by without knowing the language. Food may be difficult to order and you are somewhat limited in your choice, but there are plastic models of dishes at any restaurant. People are extremely polite, always trying to help. Before traveling I did not realize how organized Japanese society is. I would say Germany is like wild West compared to Japan.
Tokyo is huge, but manageable with some homework and flexibility. The subway system is complex - there are two separate subway companies and JR (Japan Railways) lines with complex fares depending on the distance and what lines were used. I think there are at least 4 different day passes (valid for different companies or combinations). Fortunately, there is an excellent site providing point to point directions. Once I transferred between two stations on the same line by exiting the first station and walking on the street to the second station (tickets are kept until exit). Once inside the subway it is easy to get by - the station names are announced in English, there are signs in English and trains run according to the schedule, precisely.Bullet train (Shinkansen) can reach speed up to 187 mph (300 kph).
Tokyo train station is probably the biggest railroad station I have ever been. The station is HUGE and it should have a warning "Not recommended to people with cardiac diseases" posted prominently. I was not there during the rush hours, but the amount of people is staggering. Yes, there are plenty of English signs, but with big distances between platforms it takes a lot of time to get to the platform. For example, it takes about 15-20 minutes to transfer between a Shinkansen train and Narita Express (an airport train). I chose Shinagawa station for the transfer to airport on the way back to the airport from Kyoto, it is a faster and easier transfer.In Kyoto I used buses as a major mode of transportation and it was easy. It helps that one can a get a good bus route map. There is one door for entrance at the back of the bus and another one near the the driver for exit; you pay when you exit. A day pass costs almost the same as two rides and is recommended. Bus drivers are dressed in uniform (a suit with a tie and a cap).
Riding a taxi is another experience - I took one from the station to the hotel (technically, the taxi ride was included in the rate). I came to a taxi stand and people started running around me (seriously). They took my luggage, opened a car door for me, but then decided that another taxicab would better suit me since the driver can speak fluent English and the procedure repeated. The seats are covered with white cloth and needless to say the drivers wear formal suits. The passenger doors are blocked from inside and are opened remotely by the driver.
I stayed in different hotels in Japan. There was a brand new business hotel in Tokyo - decent size room, some English channels on TV, free WiFi in the room. In Kyoto I had problems finding a reasonably priced hotel; I think it was a very busy time. I settled on staying in the expensive Hyatt for the first two nights and then moving to a cheaper business hotel. Hyatt was great and everything in the room (including the room itself) was bigger size than anywhere else I stayed in Japan. Surprisingly, there was no free WiFi (only paid cable Internet) in the room and it was funny to see so many people in the evening clustering in lobby where free WiFi was available. My last hotel was a smaller version of Hampton Inn. I think my bathroom in Hyatt was bigger than the whole room and even in hotels in Paris the bathrooms are bigger! The economy should be thrifty :)
Before going to Japan I thought I liked Japanese food. I still do, just not everyday. I did try several food options - various noodles, sushi, tempura, etc. I had some meals and did not even realize what I just ate. I think my best meal was usually morning coffee with a croissant for breakfast. Fastfood (not burgers) is surprisingly good - I guess it is closer to my usual taste. Overall, the portions are small and the presentation usually is as important as the food itself.
I still don't quite understand what people eat there - there is almost no bread, no confectionery, very little red meat.
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